Category: Travel Log

About various places on Earth.

  • Lysefjord, Norway – Rock, Water and Amazed Travelers

    Lysefjord, Norway – Rock, Water and Amazed Travelers

    From this high up, the sea is a silky blue, flat surface. I stand on the edge of the abyss. A soft, frigid wind reminds me that the panorama below is, in fact, dangerously close. But what brings out the adrenaline most is the sound of water crashing down the rockface, with no clearly discernible sound of it ever reaching a destination. Directly underneath me, almost a kilometer away, I see the southern shore of Lysefjord. Across the gray sand, scattered wet rocks await the eventual arrival of yet more chunks belonging to the same cliff I’m standing on. I just hope it doesn’t decide to crack now…

    I woke up at 4:30, shortly after sunrise, eager to take full advantage of the sunny start of the day, which came as a good omen after two days of almost non-stop rain. My wife Crina and me were in Valle, a small village where we had decided to pause our exploration of Norway on account of the bad weather. We hit the road at 5:30, with the destination Øygardstølen, a parking, restaurant and tourist information center. From there, our intention was to climb the Kjerag mountain. We wanted to see, and stand upon the famous Kjeragbolten, a 5-cubic-meter boulder wedged in the mountain’s crevasse.

    The sun was already well-above the horizon at 6 o’clock in the morning.
    The sun was already well-above the horizon at 6 o’clock in the morning.

    We needed to drive roughly 80 kilometers, most of these on a road that is closed six months of the year due to snow (today was the 1st of June). Traffic was light, to say the least. During the first hour of driving, we met a grand total of around three other cars. The first kilometers went fast, as the road had one lane per direction and I pushed the speed limits a bit. Things changed very soon though. The road narrowed when we started towards Lysebotn, the small village located at the base of Kjerag mountain, at the end of the Lysefjord. Two cars could barely fit on the strip of asphalt, but every now and then the road would widen up for a couple of meters to allow larger vehicles to pass each other.

    Despite the road’s top elevation being around 900 meters, the vegetation and landscape were speaking loud and clear about the long Northern winter.
    Despite the road’s top elevation being around 900 meters, the vegetation and landscape were speaking loud and clear about the long Northern winter.

    One of the advantages of having an early start is that we weren’t exactly disturbing the traffic, so we could stop to take pictures whenever we wanted. Other than the road and the electricity transport network seen not far away from it, there were no signs of human activity for dozens of kilometers.

    There are some hydroelectric dams around here.
    There are some hydroelectric dams around here.

    A few dwellings started to show up – cottages with earthy roofs, allowing moss and grass to flourish upon them. At one point, we went through a small village where all the buildings made use of this type of roofing. Later on, a low-altitude cloud worried me that, despite the clear sky forecast, we might have another rainy day on our hands.

    The cloud was moving fast, like an army of ghosts, barely a dozen meters above the lake.
    The cloud was moving fast, like an army of ghosts, barely a dozen meters above the lake.

    There was more and more snow as we were approaching our destination. At times, the road was going through small valleys, sinking into neatly cut layers of snow more than a meter high. As I noticed during one photo break, the snow was all iced up and hard as rock.

    Man-built formations of rock point the way to… where?
    Man-built formations of rock point the way to… where?

    Throughout the two-hour trip, the barren and lonely mountain range gave us a feeling of exploring an alien planet. While traversing this landscape we came across a large, dark-gray dam, seemingly made up only of crushed rock shards. It looked like a mega-structure left behind by a long-gone civilization.

    It’s part of a series of 7 hydroelectric power plants, producing a total of 6183 GWh. Copyright Inger Annevik.
    It’s part of a series of 7 hydroelectric power plants, producing a total of 6183 GWh. Copyright Inger Annevik.

    At around 7:30, we arrived at Øygardstølen. There was but a single other vehicle in the parking lot, a trailer whose occupants were, like us, preparing for the climb. We paid for the parking and took a quick look at the tourist information panel regarding the upcoming journey. I hadn’t documented myself too thoroughly about this hike, but I reassured my wife that the path is relatively easy; she will be fine with her running shoes and I’ll be fine with my city shoes.

    A 5-hour trip & return adventure awaited.
    A 5-hour trip & return adventure awaited.

    The weather was clear and sunny, around 4 Celsius. We dressed warm, took our jackets on, packed some water and energy snacks alongside the small tripod that we intended to use to take a photo of ourselves standing atop Kjeragbolten, and off we went!

    Impressive panorama after just 5 minutes.
    Impressive panorama after just 5 minutes.

    You know you’re in for some jaw-dropping views when, barely a few steps into your hike your eyes are already popping out and you’re finding it hard to put the camera away. You also know you probably underestimated the difficulty of the journey when your shoe slips for the first time because of the slope, which is what happened to my wife barely ten minutes into the trip. But I reassured her this is a simple hike.

    This was the first time we could gauge the depth of the fjord. Down there you can see the Lyseelvi river.
    This was the first time we could gauge the depth of the fjord. Down there you can see the Lyseelvi river.

    We were soon high enough to see down to the bottom of the valley that, somewhere further on, would become the fjord. We couldn’t see the fjord’s water nor village of Lysebotn from where, later on, we were supposed to board a ferry. Silver sparks were coming from the Lyseelvi river, which flows into the fjord’s salty waters after passing through Lysebotn.

    One would be forgiven to think that there’s just a shallow valley between these two rockfaces. In fact, there’s a 700-meter-and-growing deep abyss there.
    One would be forgiven to think that there’s just a shallow valley between these two rockfaces. In fact, there’s a 700-meter-and-growing deep abyss there.

    Crina’s shoe slipped again. Fortunately, her balance is good so she was only slipping, not falling. She started to exhibit a certain frustration at my estimations regarding the hike’s difficulty. As we were climbing, the slope had increased enough to warrant the apparition of supportive chains, threaded through thick metal rods firmly drilled into the rock. I assured my wife that this is probably the only really difficult part. And then she slipped again.

    That small dark blue car is our brave Toyota Yaris. It saw a lot of Europe in the past 3 years.
    That small dark blue car is our brave Toyota Yaris. It saw a lot of Europe in the past 3 years.

    We briefly considered going back, but decided to continue, as I was still convinced things were going to get easier. I was the first to reach what I thought and hoped was the top of the “difficult climb”, only to see yet more thick metal chains and rods, accompanied by the same merciless slope. In places, it was perhaps more than 45 degrees; that’s half of going straight up (90 degrees). When Crina saw what I saw, she was not happy. I have a picture of her priceless expression while pointing ahead, but I don’t think she’d appreciate sharing it publicly.

    Going down.
    Going down.

    Needless to say, the physical exercise got us to gradually shed our warm clothes. Finally, we reached the top and the path was much easier. We were overtaken by a couple we had previously met down in the parking lot. I was surprised it took the two fit Germans so long to catch up to poor panting us.

    Across the first valley.
    Across the first valley.

    I asked them if the rest of the hike will be as difficult. Crina didn’t like their answers. To be honest, I wasn’t exactly thrilled either. Apparently, we had barely covered about a quarter of the difficult portion (which I would have already known had I more carefully examined the description of the hike). We were now about to descend towards the first of two valleys that separated us from the Kjerag plateau. This meant that we had two climbs left.

    A tiny lake.
    A tiny lake.

    The two Germans also mentioned a rather difficult snowy portion somewhere. We looked at their shoes. They had a solid pair of climbing boots, equipped with metal inserts as well. We had the equivalent of beach sandals given the task at hand. But I guess that made us all the more badass, or just plain nuts. We forged ahead.

    There’s water somewhere down there.
    There’s water somewhere down there.

    Amazing landscapes continued to get our feet moving after every frustrated outburst of Crina’s. Eventually we both wised up and stopped complaining. We focused on our footsteps, became friends with the mountain and gave it our respect and attention. I believe this mindset is sometimes more important than the equipment one wears.

    The other rockface is less than a kilometer away. It’s closer than the fjord is deep.
    The other rockface is less than a kilometer away. It’s closer than the fjord is deep.

    And it is exactly this mindset that got us through the first of two extremely dangerous and discouraging portions (given our shoes). We had reached a steep climb where the path was covered by hardened, ice-snow. There was a sliver of rock exposed on the side, but it wasn’t a good path to climb on. And guess what: no supportive chains to help a tourist out. In the snow, we could make out several sets of climbing boots footprints. I started climbing and for the first time, my shoe slipped. Losing balance here would have probably meant falling over Crina and crashing down at least a hundred meters over steep, sharp rocks. We were this close to giving up and turning back. But we didn’t.

    It looks so harmless, isn’t it? But this was near one of the hardest portions of the entire hike.
    It looks so harmless, isn’t it? But this was near one of the hardest portions of the entire hike.

    After a short snack, one more valley and one more climb followed. Here, we came to the second mind-breaking moment of our journey. It waited for us at the end of a section where the path took us through an almost vertical climb, attacking a heavily eroded wall. The metal chain was jumping from one smashed rockface to the next, as if put there by some sadistic architect. We were almost at the top. The third climb was almost over. However, all of a sudden, our vital support for climbing, the omnipresent chain was… gone. We were left to struggle with a 30 to 40 degrees slope having no support whatsoever.

    It’s steeper than it looks.
    It’s steeper than it looks.

    By now, we had been overtaken by several other groups. There were a few other well-equipped tourists in the area. They were all taking different paths to the top, which confused us even more. But what was definitely mind-breaking was also decidedly not soul-breaking. We advanced, slowly but surely, sometimes walking, sometimes crawling. Behind us was a deadly fall. Only a few other times in my life I felt so close to death and I only remember one other time now: when I was on the fifth floor of an old building during a rather serious earthquake.

    Reward!
    Reward!

    We felt emotionally and physically drained by this last portion. At least the emotional batteries were quickly recharged when, after a few more steps, we enjoyed our first glimpse of the majestic fjord.

    The Kjerag plateau.
    The Kjerag plateau.

    One thought was barking and gnawing at my foot somewhere in the back of my mind. We don’t have parachutes, so doing BASE jumping from Kjerag down to Lysebotn wasn’t an option: we were going to have to come back the same way. I just hoped it would be easier on the return trip.

    Brave shoes, happy feet and satisfied travelers.
    Brave shoes, happy feet and satisfied travelers.

    We traversed the Kjerag plateau feeling like we’ve just taken over the world. And in a way, we had. After all, the world belongs to those who see it.

    The way.
    The way.

    Due to the increased wind and decreased physical effort, we had to get dressed again while traversing the plateau. It took another thirty minutes to reach Kjeragbolten, but when we did… gosh were we mind-blown.

    Welcome to Kjeragbolten. Oh, wait, you don’t see it? It’s right there. You’ll realize where, soon.
    Welcome to Kjeragbolten. Oh, wait, you don’t see it? It’s right there. You’ll realize where, soon.

    The view of the fjord was and still is one of the most amazing landscapes I’ve ever seen. No, let me take that back. It is THE most amazing sight I’ve ever seen. 7 years and plenty of traveling later, it still hasn’t been dethroned.

    I can assure you there are waves down there, but they’re kinda’ hard to make out from 980 meters above sea level.
    I can assure you there are waves down there, but they’re kinda’ hard to make out from 980 meters above sea level.

    Then, I have my first look at Kjeragbolten, the massive boulder stuck in the mountain’s crevasse. It’s looking back at me behind thousands of years spent wedged between the two rock walls. It seems to say it doesn’t like people stepping on it and it’s dead-serious. I approach the edge to assess the situation. Fear says “hi”. I can’t see any easy way to board the boulder. The only path is a very and I do mean very narrow indentation in the rockface, where one could only put one foot at a time in order to slowly turn the corner towards the boulder. Finally, one would have to take a rather large step to get onto Kjeragbolten.

    Totally not as easy as it looks.
    Totally not as easy as it looks.

    There were about ten other tourists relaxing and taking in the view, close to the edge of the cliff. Some people were looking towards me. I assumed that everybody had already climbed onto the boulder, but I just couldn’t muster the courage to do it. I went back to Crina who was busy shooting the hell out of the panorama. For as long as I’ve known her, she has had fear of heights, with fluctuating intensity. She seemed to be doing quite well here though. We approached the edge of the cliff and looked at the sea below. A small mountain stream of snowmelt was flowing down the crevasse, never to be heard of again. Just like a wrong step on Kjeragbolten could become.

    The insanity is easier to grasp in this picture by Klaus Brandstaetter, taken in 2009, two years prior to our visit.
    The insanity is easier to grasp in this picture by Klaus Brandstaetter, taken in 2009, two years prior to our visit.

    However, up to 2016, nobody had been recorded^ to have died due to falling from the boulder. Around ten people died when doing BASE jumping from the same mountain. I walked back to Kjeragbolten, determined to stand on it. This time, I stepped onto the ledge leading to it. As I was turning the corner towards the boulder, I realized that the rock beneath my feet is smoother than usual for this mountain. A couple of centimeters away from the sole of my shoe was a kilometer-deep drop. But alas, after one more step I was face-2-face with one of the most fearsome rocks on Earth. And again, I went back. The combination of gentle crispy wind and water rolling off the cliff was telling my animal brain that this is not where I should be right now.

    Seeing this underneath you isn’t exactly encouraging for the primal/instinctual part of the brain.
    Seeing this underneath you isn’t exactly encouraging for the primal/instinctual part of the brain.

    But then I remembered one of my all-time favorite quotes.

    “I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.”

    – Frank Herbert (Dune)

    If it wasn’t for the deadly fall beneath, I could have probably stepped onto Kjeragbolten with my eyes closed while tipsy. It really isn’t a difficult move to execute, physically-speaking. It’s the psychological aspect that gets you. But the fact that we had just been through a grueling 3-and-a-half-hour climb, littered with risky moments, got me in the right state of mind.

    Sitting on Kjeragbolten feels a lot less safe than standing.
    Sitting on Kjeragbolten feels a lot less safe than standing.

    I took off my backpack, told a tourist that if I die Crina gets the food and went straight for it. I turned the corner and without a second thought, stepped onto Kjeragbolten. My brain was going “are you mad?” but my body felt safe and sure of itself. I had that exact feeling of being very close to death, just like a couple of other times in my life. It’s an interesting sensation. It punctuates life, puts things into perspective. I stood on Kjeragbolten for a couple of minutes while Crina took some shots. To my surprise, other tourists were also taking pictures. When I returned I found that actually less than half of them had actually dared to make the large step (not even a jump). To encourage Crina, I went again, and this time I sat on it. She went to have a look as well, and returned with a rather pale face. A group of tourists arrived; one of them went there but turned around quickly, another climbed on the rock using the risky method of sitting and using his hands. Then, I went for a third time, to make a video and take some pictures from there.

    Kjeragbolten from further away.
    Kjeragbolten from further away.

    We befriended a couple of Dutch tourists. She was very afraid to make the step and asked me how come I went for it three times. I explained exactly what I realized: that once you quiet the primal part of the brain, it’s all very easy. The boulder had been there for thousands of years probably. It endured all the fury of the elements during all this time. It’s not like it’s going to crack in two because some skeletons step on it.

    The BASE jumping location.
    The BASE jumping location.

    I was still explaining when, to my absolute amazement, I saw Crina head towards Kjeragbolten. Wasn’t she afraid of heights? Yes, she was, but nonetheless, she turned the corner towards the boulder and took the most dangerous way of getting on it: sitting down and going hands first. To me, that felt extremely unsafe and risky. Humans aren’t used to move with their hands. I asked our newly found Dutch friend to grab the camera from my backpack and then waited behind her with my heart pumping wildly.

    Hello from Norway!
    Hello from Norway!

    And there we were. The two ill-equipped husband and wife, standing, respectfully, upon the fascinating Kjeragbolten. My right foot was on a rather angled part of the boulder, but the stone was rugged, so I felt quite safe. Our Dutch friends, as well as a few others, took pictures of us. It was an exhilarating experience to be there alongside my wife. I was and still am so proud of her for defeating her fear of heights in such a magnificent way. Actually, to me, her fear of heights died that day, or at least became nothing more than an occasional mood to be removed anytime is needed.

    Crevasse.
    Crevasse.

    When we returned, the Dutch couple was debating intensely. Before we knew it, they went for the boulder and… Kjeragbolten felt the second couple stand on it during the same day. It was lovely. Frankly, I think that turning that tricky corner towards the boulder is riskier than taking the actual step onto it (due to the smooth rock of the ledge).

    Waterfall.
    Waterfall.

    The way back was surprisingly easy. We had no major issues even with the two previously very risky areas. The only problem was that my shoe was a bit sweaty inside and this sometimes made my foot unstable. I warned Crina that, because we were quite tired, the potential for mistakes increases and that we should be extra careful going down. That, we were, and we made it safely back to Øygardstølen. And yes, I carried the tripod all the way for no use at all.

    Lysefjord, ground zero. Or should I say water zero.
    Lysefjord, ground zero. Or should I say water zero.

    Lysebotn was a short drive away, on a very abrupt road featuring many tight curves. Down at the ferry, we met our Dutch friends again and talked while we were waiting for the boat. The price was rather outrageous (roughly 80 Euro for a 2-hour trip), but we weren’t about to swim to Forsand^.

    Our brave little car.
    Our brave little car.

    Just as the ferryboat was leaving, a helicopter landed on a helipad. In the ship’s speakers we heard the guide announcing that the BASE jumping season had just begun. So, for our 80 Euro ticket, we could at least hear a thing or two about the fjord as we were traversing the 42 kilometers to Forsand.

    Kjeragbolten from below.
    Kjeragbolten from below.

    Soon after departure, we experienced the view of Kjeragbolten from below. Just a few hours ago, we had been standing there. There aren’t many days in my life when I traveled (let alone experience) as much as on this day. The sight of the boulder from below is somewhat even more improbable than being next to it. A tiny crumble of rock, caught between two walls, just as it was about to roll toward the sea who knows how long ago? Or? What if some smart ancient Norwegians rolled it into place, foreseeing the profits that it’ll generate from tourism?

    Fjord exploration.
    Fjord exploration.

    We saw plenty of waterfalls while the ferry was making its way towards Forsand where our plan was to go to another camping. After having been lucky with excellent weather all through the day, now, the skies darkened.

    Check out the wildlife.
    Check out the wildlife.

    These were the first wild seals I ever saw, a reward for enduring the wind and increasingly cold weather outside, especially on the ferry’s deck. Most of the tourists had went inside and were only coming when the guide announced something important.

    Spray!
    Spray!

    Among the important things was this splendid waterfall. The boat came close enough to it for us to feel the water spray. There was also a rather boring cave that they said had some connection to some pirates in the past. We also saw Preikestolen^ from below, which is more famous than Kjeragbolten^. Our plan was to go there the next day, but the upcoming rain and clouds dashed that future.

    The famous Preikestolen.
    The famous Preikestolen.

    Soon, the ferry floated below the Lysefjord bridge, signaling the end of our trip. We reached a nice camping by the sea soon enough. It was raining again so we didn’t bother to install our large tent for just one night. We slept in a rather smelly rented trailer that belonged to the camping. Given how tired we were, we could have slept anywhere. They probably could’ve bombed the coast and we still wouldn’t have woken up. The trailer was overpriced, just like everything else around here. So, a word of warning: purchase food in shops and try to cook it yourself. I think Norway is a country to be enjoyed from a motorhome.

    Rain.
    Rain.

    There is no other place on Earth about which I can say I’m sure to return to more than about Norway. We only spent a handful of days there, and most of them in Oslo. But it was enough to understand that we barely scratched the surface of what this amazing country has to offer. With its dramatic coastlines and pristine nature, this land is a global must-see destination.

    Norway, we shall meet again!

    Most pictures made by Crina^, unless otherwise stated.

    My proposed soundtrack for reading this text:

    Those Who Ride With Giants – The Mountain Seed^

    Moby – Slow^

     

    The reason this soundtrack is here at the bottom (supposedly after the reader finished the text) is because one can’t really focus on music anyway while reading a new text. Hopefully the story was entertaining enough to ask for a second read, this time with some music in the background.

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  • Stockholm – North’s Blue Emerald

    Stockholm – North’s Blue Emerald

    As the birds of steel approach the city from the Baltic Sea, the lucky travelers are treated to one of the most beautiful panoramas this planet has on offer. Thousands of little green islands scatter away from the Scandinavian mainland, emerald shards sinking into blue depths. Stockholm itself is not much different from the archipelago leading up to it, except that there’s more green than blue that surrounds this well-planned, clean and cozy capital.

    This picture of the Stockholm Archipelago was taken by another traveler. I saw it in better conditions (clear sky, low sun, golden light).
    This picture of the Stockholm Archipelago was taken by another traveler. I saw it in better conditions (clear sky, low sun, golden light).

    I was one of those lucky travelers when my plane approached the Arlanda airport some years ago during a clear-skied summer evening. I still remember the feeling of grandeur that crept up my spine as the landscape below was tempting the adventurer in me. Join me on a tour of the city (and surroundings) that I’ve felt as a “home” even before I knew it actually will become my home (I’ve been here for almost 9 years now).

    Arlanda Terminal 5, copyright Philip.
    Arlanda Terminal 5, copyright Philip.

    I arrived at the airport at around 20:00 and was picked up by Andrei, the man I’ll always be grateful to for giving me the opportunity to be here. The sun was still hours from setting since this was mid-July, close to the summer solstice. To give you an idea what this means, on the date when I arrived, the sun rose at 03:55 and set at 21:50, with a total day length of 17 hours and 54 minutes.

    I’m thankful for whoever chose dark amber as the predominant color for the area of Arlanda’s Terminal 5 where I exited the airplane. It resonated with the golden light of the late sun, creating a warm, cozy atmosphere as I was walking fast past deserted gates.

    Sankt Eriksplan, from the window of my first accommodation in Sweden.
    Sankt Eriksplan, from the window of my first accommodation in Sweden.

    The image above represents Stockholm very well. It’s a clean city with ample of green spaces, populated by well-maintained buildings with warm-colored facades. There are several large parks in the center of the city. Vasaparken is one of them and is situated right here at Sankt Eriksplan.

    Not a lot of traffic during the summer.
    Not a lot of traffic during the summer.

    A lot of Swedes leave the cities during the summer, so it’s easy to take pictures with seemingly deserted streets. The traffic infrastructure of the city has been built with plenty of wiggle-room in mind, even though in the past years it has begun to struggle. However, an amazing public transport system (among the best in the world) is saving most people from wasting time being stuck in traffic. Here’s the route planner^ (complete with price listings). Rechargeable travel cards can be purchased at SL centers in main transport hubs or, even easier, at any Pressbyran^ shop. And here’s a map of the metro^.

    One of the tunnels leading down into the new commuter train station opened in 2017. Get yourself 20 minutes and explore this marvel of engineering.
    One of the tunnels leading down into the new commuter train station opened in 2017. Get yourself 20 minutes and explore this marvel of engineering.

    But let us leave the city for a while. One of the best things a traveler can do in the Stockholm area is to get a boat ride through the gorgeous archipelago. My personal favorite is a trip to Sandhamn using a special kind of boat that takes the scenic route through parts of the archipelago where larger boats can’t fit. This is a day trip that is usually available from May to September. Make sure you don’t confuse this with the “usual” trip to Sandhamn, which makes use of faster boats, but goes via another route.

    The Swedes sure know how to build in harmony with nature.
    The Swedes sure know how to build in harmony with nature.

    The trip towards the archipelago showcases some of the most beautiful houses I’ve ever seen. I have a lot of appreciation for the effort that was put into integrating human dwellings with the natural habitat. Of course, there are even better ways to do it, but this is a step in the right direction. It’s an example of architecture that is respectful towards the environment. But let’s not get into how much a house like that costs.

    The Strömma Canal bridge as it lifted to allow our boat’s passage.
    The Strömma Canal bridge as it lifted to allow our boat’s passage.

    Towards Sandhamn, the vessel goes through the Strömma Canal^ which is very, very narrow. The guide will probably tell you about the devastation^ that a Russian fleet brought to the east coast of Sweden almost 300 years ago. The Russians suffered a humiliating defeat and were stopped somewhere around these parts.

    Beautiful scenery on the way to Sandhamn.
    Beautiful scenery on the way to Sandhamn.

    Eventually, human civilization falls behind and nature reigns. Boats usually make brief stops on some of the permanently inhabited islands, sometimes only to drop newspapers or mail. There’s not a lot of sand on these rocky formations so beaches are in short supply, but Sandhamn is called like that for a reason.

    Vaxholm, the “capital” of the Inner Stockholm Archipelago.
    Vaxholm, the “capital” of the Inner Stockholm Archipelago.

    Another good place to visit is the island and fortress of Vaxholm^. The city of Vaxholm is reachable by bus thanks to a network of bridges. There’s a cheap ferry that makes the connection with the stocky fortress. The island of Grinda^ is another good destination, especially for those that focus on nature rather than architecture.

    Valborg celebration in Gamla Stan (the Old Town).
    People with torches in Gamla Stan (the Old Town).

    And now let’s get back to Stockholm. This is not a picture of a riot, even though there have been some of those^ as well (definitely not something usual, but there are dark moments in every city’s history, especially when it comes to capitals).

    The Valborg bonfire.
    The Valborg bonfire.

    This is how Swedes celebrate Walpurgis^: with a huge bonfire (among other things). We’ve attended this one in 2010, during our first full year here in Stockholm.

    The “world’s longest art gallery”.
    The “world’s longest art gallery”.

    The Stockholm metro has been called “the world’s longest art gallery”. Indeed, there’s a lot of impressive, funny and perhaps even weird^ things to see when exploring the city via its more than 100 metro stations.

    The station at Kungsträdgården is one of the most impressive.
    The station at Kungsträdgården is one of the most impressive.

    I couldn’t find a better picture of the Kungsträdgården station, but it doesn’t matter. There are several online articles^ that feature good selections^ of Stockholm metro art^.

    Awwww… isn’t that cute? Hi Frida! Hi Carl Philip!
    Awwww… isn’t that cute? Hi Frida! Hi Carl Philip!

    One of the first things I noticed when I traveled with the metro here is that these guys actually went through the trouble of naming every single train car (each train has up to 3 long cars). How could I not fall in love with such a city?

    Here’s more metro art.
    Here’s more metro art.

    The trains are quite long and very well maintained. There’s also an impressive network of buses that reaches almost any place you might want to go throughout the Stockholm metropolitan area. They are also extremely punctual, except when it snows a bit too much^.

    Random fact time: tap water here is among the purest in the world.

    In the market for a guitar?
    In the market for a guitar?

    Art, and especially music, is blossoming in Stockholm. A newly renovated^ music high-school ensures that future generations have ample opportunities to develop their skills. Creatives are pouring into and swarming around the city. The fact that the capital has become a regional technology hub contributes to the artistic growth.

    Hellasgården. Not to be spelled “hell as garden”.
    Hellasgården. Not to be spelled “hell as garden”.

    All around Stockholm, parks and nature reserves abound. One of our favorites is Hellasgården, south of the city, easily reachable by bus (15 minutes) from centrally located public transport hub, Slussen. Follow the marked path to circle the Källtorp lake. It takes about 1.5 hours. Beautiful views are waiting for you to behold.

    Oh, hello there.
    Oh, hello there.

    There’s a small touristic village here, featuring a restaurant, several cottages and a sauna. Sporting events are organized all year-round. In the winter, they make a skating rink and one can circle the lake while steaming, naked people run out of the sauna and throw themselves into the ice-cold water at a specially maintained area next to the shore.

    The Flaten lake and nature reserve.
    The Flaten lake and nature reserve.

    Also one bus away from central Stockholm is Flaten, a lake that supposedly has the best water quality around the capital. The accompanying nature reserve is swarming with people gathering mushrooms during certain autumn weekends. There are two small sand beaches that are quite busy during the summer.

    Raising of the Maypole during Midsummer day at the Tyresta national park.
    Raising of the Maypole during Midsummer day at the Tyresta national park.

    Midsummer day is very important for Swedes. Close to Stockholm lies the Tyresta national park and castle. We’ve been lucky to celebrate Midsummer there in 2010.

    Midsummer day at Hellasgården.
    Midsummer day at Hellasgården.

    Do keep in mind that what you’re seeing above is just 15 minutes away from a bustling capital (in Scandinavian terms). There’s no traffic, no hubbub, just forest, rocks, water and positive vibes. Oh, and clean air, just like in the rest of Scandinavia as a matter of fact.

    Autumn at Hellasgården.
    Autumn at Hellasgården.

    But wait a minute, isn’t this city supposed to be “somewhere in the North”? Where are the polar bears roaming on the streets, picking off half-frozen people from bus stations? Don’t worry, I haven’t been avoiding the subject of winter.

    Winter, NOT as advertised.
    Winter, NOT as advertised.

    Thanks to its proximity to the Baltic Sea and to global warming, Stockholm winters aren’t that tough, at least not for me. My home town in Transylvania experiences more snow and colder winters, albeit not as dark and not as long. Yes, it gets quite dark, with the day length dropping to just over 6 hours during the winter solstice.

    But when it snows…
    But when it snows…

    Sure, there are times when we get buried a bit^, but remember that thing I said about an awesome public transport system? Because so many people rely on it, the Swedes won’t let themselves be buried for too long.

    … it’s magical.
    … it’s like in the fairy tales.

    Personally, I love winters here. It’s the coziest time of the year. Almost everybody puts something shining and colorful in the window. It’s a time for snuggling in bed with a warm cup of tea and enjoying a good movie, or for doing some quality gaming in the dark. There are lots of indoor swimming pools, climbing arenas and many other places one can burn calories and time.

    Stockholm in the winter.
    Stockholm in the winter.

    Cold weather? As the (sometimes annoying) saying goes: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”. Those that visit during the winter should definitely pack underpants and thick jackets. In Stockholm it’s not the temperature that gets you, it’s the humid wind courtesy of the Baltic Sea. The thermometer rarely goes under -15 Celsius and usually hovers around -10 to -5, sometimes even around 0.

    Spring explosion.
    Spring explosion.

    Spring hits sometime around mid-April, give or take half a month. Yeah, that’s a long winter, although there are several warm days scattered through November and March. When spring does arrive, it’s an explosion of happiness. Stockholmers pour out and bask in the sun on every bench around town, occupy every sidewalk and find every excuse to be out in the light.

    Celebrating spring over at Kungsträdgården.
    Celebrating spring over at Kungsträdgården.

    Thanks to all the green spaces, it’s a city where one can truly celebrate spring. We try to walk underneath the blossoming Japanese cherry trees at Kungsträdgården every year. At this same location, during winter, they set up a skating rink. Kungsträdgården hosts various gatherings year-round (concerts, exhibitions, commercial and political events).

    A very usual roundabout somewhere in a Stockholm suburb where this writer might live.
    A very usual roundabout somewhere in a Stockholm suburb where this writer might live.

    Here are some other fun things one can do in Stockholm: get a subscription for the city bikes^. It’s cheap and there are lots of pick-up & drop-off points. Go visit the Drottningholm palace or the Haga park. Enjoy the awesome view and in the same time have a tasty dinner up in the Kaknästornet television tower^. And I can’t forget my favorite museum: Fotografiska^, located at walking distance from Slussen. And since you’re in the area, don’t miss the chance to eat at one of the best vegetarian restaurants in the Swedish capital: Herman’s^.

    The changing of the guards at the Royal Palace.
    The changing of the guards at the Royal Palace.

    In Gamla Stan (the Old Town) one can find such points of interest as the Nobel Museum (overrated in my opinion) and the Royal Palace (not terribly impressive either). And of course, there are several streets filled to the brim with overpriced cafes and souvenir shops. There are two restaurants I can recommend in the area: the vegetarian Hermitage and the absolutely fabulous Viking-themed Aifur^.

    Every day around noon (depending on weekday and season) one can enjoy the changing of the guards with military fanfare. The Royal Palace is only used by the royal family during official events. They normally reside at Drottningholm. Oh, speaking of royalty…

    The closest we ever got to royalty.
    The closest we ever got to royalty.

    This is a picture of King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia that we took during the Swedish National day in 2010. They crossed barely five meters from where we were standing.

    Royal guards.
    Royal guards.

    Go on a promenade along the famous Strandvägen and don’t be surprised if you see people riding horses (not necessarily the royal guards). As you walk on Strandvägen coming from the center of Stockholm, you will find Djurgårdsbron, the bridge over to Djurgården, which is the island hosting some of Stockholm’s most important attractions.

    Blurry Vasa (I had a smudge on my lens and it ruined about half a day worth of pictures).
    Blurry Vasa (I had a smudge on my lens and it ruined about half a day worth of pictures).

    The Vasa Museum^ is one of the most visited museums in Scandinavia for good reason. It’s built around a huge warship that sunk in what was a shameful failure for the Swedish naval forces. However, fast forward 400 years and the Swedes have turned it around into one of the best museums I’ve been in (and which probably more than paid for the loss of the ship, the expenses to recuperate it and some jokes about the Swedish navy). Well planned and organized, the Vasa is a must-see if you’re into going to museums.

    The Nordic Museum. The Vasa Museum is visible behind it. Picture taken from Wikipedia, Creative Commons license.
    The Nordic Museum. The Vasa Museum is visible behind it. Picture taken from Wikipedia, Creative Commons license.

    And while you’re at it, make sure you at least go into the Nordic Museum for a couple of minutes. It’s situated right next to the Vasa. It’s a very impressive structure. The museum itself is excellent if you’re interested in the history of Scandinavia all the way from ancient times.

    Make sure you ride the Free Fall Tilt (without your shoes on! You’ll understand why when you see it). Picture taken from Wikipedia, Creative Commons license.
    Make sure you ride the Free Fall Tilt (without your shoes on! You’ll understand why when you see it). Picture taken from Wikipedia, Creative Commons license.

    On Djurgården you can also find the Gröna Lund^ amusement park, open spring-autumn. On most late afternoons they also host a concert, sometimes featuring pretty famous names. A beautiful park surrounds Prince Eugene’s Waldemarsudde^, an art museum. Right across from Djurgården you can find the Sea History Museum^, the Technical Museum^ and the Ethnographic Museum^. With this many attractions and so much nature all around, the Djurgården area offers plenty of opportunity for charming walks.

    Stepping back in time at Skansen.
    Stepping back in time at Skansen.

    Also on Djurgården you can find the Skansen open-air Museum^. It’s a recreation of a long-gone Sweden. Year-round, the employees of the museum illustrate life as it was a long time ago. They walk around and go about their business in the exact same clothes people here were wearing hundreds of years ago. Enter one of the many cottages and see them work iron, glass and furs, or listen to them play the violin and sing folk songs during the winter, sitting by the fireplace. There are many events for family and children at Skansen.

    Water mill.
    Water mill.

    They either re-created or brought entire structures from all over Sweden. The museum covers a large area so you can consider it a day trip. There’s also a zoo featuring animals from Sweden. Some of them are kept in decent conditions while others have very little living space, something that really doesn’t sit well with me.

    Old dwelling at Skansen, featuring the Nordic Museum far in the background.
    Old dwelling at Skansen, featuring the Nordic Museum far in the background.

    There is an even worse zoo at the bottom of the park where they caged exotic animals. It is at that zoo where a couple of years ago it struck me more intensely than ever just how terrible these places are. Inside one of the “large” enclosures I saw two monkeys perched next to one of the few windows of the enclosure, looking outside towards a freedom they will probably never experience.

    The place is contradictory to the Swedes’ general respect towards animals and the environment. But having a zoo is still considered around the world as providing some sort of “educational value”, despite the fact that it also presents children with a skewed image of reality – that of animals seen as some sort of play-things or curiosities for us to catalogue. I feel that this is more harmful than whatever is gained by seeing an animal up-close rather than in a documentary. And that’s it for today’s ethics lesson :).

    The cloudy ballet.
    The cloudy ballet.

    Millesgården^ is another good museum with plenty of open-air art. It is situated on the island of Lidingö, easily accessible with public transport. It’s mostly focused on sculptures, some of them appearing to defy the laws of nature (but it’s all just physics).

    Reaching for the sky at Millesgården.
    Reaching for the sky at Millesgården.

    Stockholm is a safe city given its size and cultural diversity. With that in mind, yes, there are a couple of neighborhoods that I would recommend staying clear of: Tensta, Rinkeby and Husby. But there really isn’t any major risk if you mind your own business. Nothing on the scale of what you can get yourself into in (much) bigger cities such as Paris, London, Rio or New York.

    Enjoying a day out at sea.
    Enjoying a day out at sea.

    Last I heard, about one in every seven Stockholmers own a boat. I think a better statistic is that seven out of ten people speak English here. Half of them speak it very well.

    Stockholm peoples (a paraphrasing of Alan Watts’ expression that just like the apple tree apples, the Earth peoples). Those are my wife and son in that picture.
    Stockholm peoples (a paraphrasing of Alan Watts’ expression that “just like the apple tree apples, the Earth peoples”). Those are my wife and son in that picture.

    I am happy to say that I consider myself lucky to have been shaped by this city. No matter what my future holds, I am fortunate to have lived here for almost 9 years and counting. I arrived here as a stressed-out Romanian immigrant. This city and its inhabitants worked miracles on me. Together with my new-found home I also had the courage to start a family, something that Sweden is wonderful for (but more on that in a future article).

    Stockholm is also quite contradictory at times. It is a place that offers many temptations and a lot of Swedes have fallen prey to the hyper-consumerism push^ coming from the United States, a country they seem to look up to for reasons I can’t really comprehend. And yet, it is a place that encourages personal evolution and reinvention. Like anything in life, it is what you make it. For me, Stockholm is the place I was born again.

    My proposed soundtrack for reading this text:

    Wardruna – Dagr^

    Fever Ray – Keep The Streets Empty For Me^

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  • Sintra – Portugal’s Castlefest

    Sintra – Portugal’s Castlefest

    The potent summer sun spent its day doing what Portuguese sun does best. That is, baking castle masonry and tourists alike. There are plenty of both to go around in this beautiful region. Going to Sintra is like visiting the castle museum. A day is barely enough to see a few different architectures originating from various periods of the past millennium. Paths treaded by countless generations before are faithful guides into and through the depths of history.

    Your writer
    Your writer

    We arrived in Sintra via train from Lisbon’s Rossio station. We skipped the tourist information bureau because it was gutted by the dozens of people who were faster to exit the platform through the proper ticket-scanning gates. We didn’t notice that the queue we were standing in was for the disabilities gate, which was much slower because it was a double-gate.

    Luckily, we had researched about the area beforehand so we knew that we can use public transport to reach our objectives. And when I say public transport I mean the regional Portuguese network that the locals also use, as opposed to the rip-off (double price) “red busses”, which actually have less frequent departures.

    Welcome to Sintra
    Welcome to Sintra

    We exited the station and jumped on a bus that was preparing to leave. Even though these buses are used by the locals as well, they are quite well equipped to meet touristic needs. The local company realized that it can cater to both groups, so they have special day tickets that come with a map that explains how to reach the various monuments in the region. Everything is payable in the bus, with cash. They were out of English maps and we already had our own, but as it turned out it was useful to have two of them because the transport company’s map also contained the bus schedule.

    We arrived in the historical center. The Sintra National Palace^ located there is the best preserved medieval Royal Palace in Portugal. I didn’t find the structure all that impressive. It doesn’t look too different from other medieval palaces we’ve seen in Europe, aside perhaps from its two pointy conical towers. So, because we only had one day here, after shielding our skins with sun lotion we decided to get on the next bus and visit some of the other monuments in the area.

    The Sintra National Palace
    The Sintra National Palace

    The first stop was the Castle of the Moors^. To reach the complex, we walked upon a cobbled path that snaked through a charming forest. We felt at ease and in tune with nature. Many fancier constructions from the same category feature “royal gardens” where people invest tons of resources into shaping nature to their will. The Castle of the Moors is living proof that any monument is only half of the story. The landscape around it is the other half.

    Ancient masonry, everlasting nature
    Ancient masonry, everlasting nature

    Bits and pieces of forgotten masonry sometimes burst through the lively green of the forest. Here, in the sheltering shadow, dark green moss is slowly but surely consuming rocks, turning them into the soil of tomorrow.

    Borders
    Borders

    The Castle consists of a series of ancient fortifications whose construction dates from the 8th and 9th centuries. Several improvements were done throughout the structure’s impressive history. Walking upon walls whose origin is more than one thousand years ago can easily turn into an introspective experience. But the day’s weather wouldn’t allow it.

    I’d like to one day see a 360 degrees video featuring a thousand-year time-lapse taken from these walls
    I’d like to one day see a 360 degrees video featuring a thousand-year time-lapse taken from these walls

    Breathtaking doesn’t quite do justice to the panorama that greets the visitors as they walk along the walls. The forest below barely reaches the foundation. Then, the land quickly drops away and unfolds its forests, plains and villages, all the way to the sea that is visible almost ten kilometers away. The “top of the world” feeling is intoxicating.

    Two of the most visited places in Sintra in the same shot
    Two of the most visited places in Sintra in the same shot

    Our next destination, the National Palace of Pena, was also visible from here. We heard that the palace is “cute” and already from this far-away glimpse we realized the truth in the saying that it looks like something from fairy tales. And just like a magical place, it was already enthralling us to get there as soon as possible.

    Away
    Away

    Before that, however, we had more walls to climb. And climb we did. Even though the heat was beginning to get to us, we still had the stamina of morning visitors. The view of the villages far below the fortifications tempted us to take countless pictures. We tried to get it all in using our wide lens, but even it was defeated by the wide embrace of this flourishing land. We then played through the streets of the toy-villages below using our zoom lens.

    The spine of the world
    The spine of the world

    Our next stop was the Pena Palace^. The bus station was crowded and the situation got worse during the 15 minutes it took for the bus to arrive. While we waited, the Sun was in its full mid-day prime. Luckily, we always managed our water supplies well.

    The first bus that arrived filled up before we could squeeze in, but the second one came just a couple of minutes later. The locals probably do not enjoy the height of the tourist season when strangers take over some of their bus lines. We did consider walking to the palace, as a cleaning lady told me it should be only about 15 minutes. I’m glad we didn’t because the winding road was quite steep. Saving energy is important during such a day of voracious exploration.

    Your photographer
    Your photographer

    We spent about half an hour walking through the garden at the entrance of the complex. Not for the first time today I noticed the great care invested in getting the place in tune with the aesthetics of the surrounding vegetation. Following the path that nature has taken is not only beautiful, but also cost effective. Here, there was also a small botanical garden where various species of plants had been labeled.

    Pink water lily. Can’t go wrong with this one
    Pink water lily. Can’t go wrong with this one

    A small shuttle bus was available to drive people up to the palace. A brisk walk would probably have taken less than 10 minutes, so the 3 Euro trip and return ticket was a blatant rip-off. Still, adhering to the “time vs energy vs money” principles, we gladly subjected ourselves to said rip-off, especially since we wanted to cram as much Sintra as possible within one day. Besides, Crina was already two months into growing a baby and it’s better to err on the side of caution when it comes to energy reserves.

    Looking forward to our visit at Pena
    Looking forward to our visit at Pena

    The Pena Palace looks like what you’d get after a convention of architects specializing in fairytale castles spends a three-day weekend collating the best ideas and then decides to implement all of the designs into the same structure. Bursting from the emerald forest, a collage of different colors and shapes greets the visitor with a mood of optimism and innocence.

    One of the most architecturally-diverse palaces I’ve ever seen
    One of the most architecturally-diverse palaces I’ve ever seen

    We decided to purchase a ticket and get inside the palace against my better judgment, which whispered: “once you’ve been in one palace, you’ve seen them all”. Partially, my inner voice was right. What we found were various stuffses of royal character but of little interest to us as seasoned tourists. However, after going through the usual “palace visiting routine” consisting of going through rooms alongside a route defined by the owners, we found ourselves surrounded by the same flavor of coziness that seems to abound in this p(a)lace (couldn’t help it).

    One room filled with royal stuff, several rooms filled with royal stuffses
    One room filled with royal stuff, several rooms filled with royal stuffses

    According to the encyclopedia, the architecture is an “intentional mixture of eclectic styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance”. I think it’s much more than a sum of labels. Not even a wide lens does it justice. I’ll call it “the four Cs of the Pena Palace”: cute, charming, cozy, childish. It is one of the most original constructions I’ve ever seen (it’s a top ten thing).

    Architecture’s “all you can eat” Romantic buffet
    Architecture’s “all you can eat” Romantic buffet

    It was time to replenish ourselves so we grabbed a bus back to the city center. I have to give kudos to Trip Advisor for helping us steer clear of several tourist trap restaurants during the past couple of years. This time, it failed. We got ripped off by a restaurant that had a decent rating. The setting was nice, but the food was expensive and of poor quality. The shops also had the same tourist trap flavor, so we got outta there fast.

    Here’s another picture with the Pena Palace to sweeten up the disappointing city center paragraph
    Here’s another picture with the Pena Palace to sweeten up the disappointing city center paragraph

    The final stop on our blitz tour of Sintra was Quinta da Regaleira^. We arrived by bus from the city center, one station later realizing that the property is walking distance from there. The evening was approaching fast and we wanted to visit a fourth location in Sintra, so our plan was to have a quick peek at what we thought is just one building and then jump onto the next bus.

    Welcome to Rivendell
    Welcome to Rivendell

    I think it’s safe to say that the architecture of this sprawling estate has been an inspiration for artists that went on to design charming buildings in movies such as The Lord of the Rings. This place is Rivendell in real life.

    A monumental figurine
    A monumental figurine

    The chapel is a short walk from the estate. Despite its diminutive size, the structure inspires a sense of awe. It is not only the intricate Romantic architecture that is responsible for this, but also chapel’s excellent positioning within the estate’s large complex of gardens, walls, grottos and waterfalls. It is situated close to a walled rock face that is partially covered with vegetation and from certain angles it looks like they are one single construction.

    A beautiful and quiet place
    A beautiful and quiet place

    Time flew past us and we missed one of the last busses back to the train station. The more we were walking around, the more routes and things to see popped up. We couldn’t explore the grottos and tunnels as much as we would have wanted. Actually, looking over the encyclopedia entry, I realize that we’ve barely scratched the surface of what the property has to offer. We didn’t get to see any of the (two) awesome Initiation Wells^.

    The boundary between natural and man-made (also a type of “natural”) is often blurry
    The boundary between natural and man-made (also a type of “natural”) is often blurry

    Our plan to visit a fourth location during the day proved itself too ambitious. Alas, Quinta da Regaleira was too amazing not to spend all our remaining time there. We had to leave around 18:00 because we had to catch the last bus towards the train station.

    In the middle of the bridge, protected by those columns, there are two ghosts promising love to each other
    In the middle of the bridge, protected by those columns, there are two ghosts promising love to each other

    In the half hour until our train was going to depart we sat on a staircase between two houses. As the day’s heat was subduing a large bottle of water was life’s royal gift. For weary legs, the steps we were sitting on were like a throne. We were tired but thankful. Feeling so fulfilled in such simple setting made me wonder if all tourists are aware of how lucky they are. We get the chance to complain about ticket prices while in other parts of the world people are starving and ration their dirty water.

    Pointy things, both gray and green, all in Sintra should be seen :)
    Pointy things, both gray and green, all in Sintra should be seen 🙂

    A day is only enough to taste, in a rush, some of Sintra’s most prized treasures. One would need at least three days to thoroughly explore the area. Visit, and become part of the fairy tale.

    Most pictures made by Crina^.

    You can access the full album here^.

    My proposed soundtrack for reading this text:

    Hindi Zahra – The Moon (feat. House of Spirituals)^

    David Maxim Micic – Universe in a Crayon^

    The reason this soundtrack is here at the bottom (supposedly after the reader finished the text) is because one can’t really focus on music anyway while reading a new text. Hopefully the story was entertaining enough to ask for a second read, this time with some music in the background.

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  • Kerrera – Scotland’s Hidden Gem

    Kerrera – Scotland’s Hidden Gem

    A dark and foreboding sky hid the sun for most of the day. During the evening, wet clouds came down and embraced the hills, caressing the trees with misty fingers. The only sounds were those of animals and wind. A charming tea garden awaits the weary traveler. Not far away, perched upon a rock, Gylen castle looks towards the grassy path. It has been waiting there for hundreds of years, hoarding memories of amazed travelers in its thoughtful stone. Welcome to Kerrera.

    "You cannot create experience. You must undergo it." / Albert Camus
    “You cannot create experience. You must undergo it.” / Albert Camus

    During September 2016, we rented a car and drove around Scotland for two weeks. We eventually arrived at a guest house in Connell, a small village near Oban. During our first breakfast there, we started talking with a couple from Belgium. That’s how we learned about the often-overlooked island.

    Dreams will always find a way to sail
    Dreams will always find a way to sail

    This serene and moody piece of land has impressed me to such a degree that I decided to start writing about some of the beautiful places on Earth that I’ve had the luck and honor to visit. So, I hereby invite you to travel together with a writer and his photographer wife to a special island on the West coast of Scotland.

    Love and tea
    Love and tea

    To say that this is Scotland’s hidden gem may sound like a bit of an overstatement. If it’s a gem, well, that you’ll have to decide for yourself by looking at the pictures (and by hopefully going there one day). Is it hidden? That, it certainly is. Large tour operators are busy with the easy or famous routes. Most tourists traveling in small groups seem to underestimate its value.

    Weather - the ultimate natural mood enhancer
    Weather – the ultimate natural mood enhancer

    We took a tiny ferry from Oban to the island at 12:30, the last one before a 90 minute break. And I do mean tiny. The ferry’s capacity is 12 people or one car. They don’t seem keen to allow tourist vehicles on the isle. They don’t need to either, since you can circle Kerrera, on foot, in about three hours if you keep a decent pace.

    On board our five minute ride to Kerrera
    On board our five minute ride to Kerrera

    We took the short route towards the isle’s highlight – the Gylen castle and the tea garden closeby. Even so, we spent more than one hour and a half one way. On Kerrera, we rediscovered that there are places where the less is happening, the more there is to experience. A profound calmness greeted us there. We could feel it from the moment we got off the ferry together with the postlady and her son. Carefree, she left her child unattended. He played next to the water, among stones and sand. Just a few days earlier, in busier places, we’ve seen parents holding their children in a leash.

    Childhood
    Childhood

    Here was a little boy having a healthy childhood, playing around the tiny dock without supervision, absorbed in a curious yet respectful exploration of his surroundings. The mother had gone to prepare the mail buggy she was to drive around the island. We strolled through the grass next to the dock for a while before joining with the country road leading to the castle and the tea garden.

    Weeeeeh'lcome to Keeeeeeh'rrera
    Weeeeeh’lcome to Keeeeeeh’rrera

    The path led us through farmlands where herds of sheep and cows were going about their daily life. Dry grass and thriving nature breathed their heartbeat through our nostrils. It smelled like summer, even though it was the middle of September.  The only man-made sounds were our footsteps. Every now and then, we would reach a metal gate, separating the farmers’ herds. There were very few other tourists. We met less than 20 people during our 5 hours here. This contributed to the feeling of peacefulness that descended upon us while exploring this magical island.

    An everyruin
    An everyruin

    Like two children chasing their curiosity through an enchanted forest, having the adventure of their lifetime, we followed the signs leading us to the druids’ cottage. Whoever these druids were, they seemed to have a penchant for tea, cake and cute signs.

    The druids really kept us going
    The druids really kept us going

    The tea garden is quite close to the Gylen castle. We had a tasty sandwich and soup there. Even though a bit on the pricy side (given the quantity), the waitresses (ahem, druids) were very kind and their establishment was beyond charming. Even the “Loo with a view” was embellished with cute pictures and funny quotes.

    The Kerrera Tea Garden
    The Kerrera Tea Garden

    Kerrera is part of the Scottish Inner Hebrides group of islands, just like the famous Isle of Skye. There are about 30 people living on the 7 by 2 kilometers wide island. Gylen castle was built in 1582 by the Clan MacDougall. It was occupied for a relatively short period of time before being besieged and burned by the Covenanters^ in 1647.

    These two were still at foreplay three hours later when we returned
    These two were still at foreplay three hours later when we returned

    We proceeded towards Gylen at around 16, about two hours before the last ferry back to Oban. We had no expectations whatsoever, especially since Kerrera didn’t show up on our radar during our relatively thorough pre-holiday planning. We had already seen four famous castles of Scotland, including the top two tourist destinations. We also saw two ruined castles, which we actually liked more than the famous ones.

    The road less traveled
    The road less traveled

    We weren’t exactly prepared to be mind-blown. However, as we were walking on the grassy path, Gylen emerged from behind a hill. It felt like Scotland was suddenly personified as boxer and it wanted to catch us off guard with a punch from the left. There, in front of us, enthroned upon a steep rock, waiting under the dark after-noon sky was a lasting remnant of a bygone age.

    I've been expecting you
    I’ve been expecting you

    This is, by far, the most beautiful castle we’ve seen in Scotland. It is placed upon that cliff, overlooking the sea as if ready to take whatever the world can throw at it. Its architecture – like for example the supporting corbels^ that would have made it difficult for attackers to escalate the walls – speaks lengths about its purpose. The castle is quite well preserved (and partially restored). It’s also deserted, as in there are extremely few tourists around. There’s so little traffic that the grass is still intact everywhere around it. All in all, it’s touching.

    433 years later, man made object takes photograph of another man made object
    433 years later, man made object takes photograph of another man made object

    The feeling of being there, completely alone, is amazing. Indeed, there was nobody in sight for a good while. We did meet another couple, there at the castle. Two fifty-year-olds that have been here two decades ago and were now retracing their steps – the perfect encounter to round off such a magical day.

    The Gylen Castle
    The Gylen Castle

    I keep highlighting the fact that the lack of tourists contributes to the beauty of Kerrera. Don’t get me wrong, we’re not anti-social and we’re aware that we’re tourists too. But it’s a special feeling to be in such a lovely place all by yourself. When choosing to go on the road less traveled, there’s something related with free will that tingles with joy. The happiness brought by a new discovery fuels this most inner human need to dance with curiosity.

    Nature's soft dress offers stone a wet caress
    Nature’s soft dress offers stone a wet caress

    I’d take Gylen’s green lichen tapestry any day over the pompous walls of nameless palaces. The soft dressing inundates the walls, hinting at abandoned glory and wet, misty mornings. It’s interesting how there is more humanity and nature in this ruin than in the gardens of Versailles during a busy summer day. You’re alone with your thoughts, listening to the wind chase bygone memories through empty window frames.

    Gone with the wind
    Gone with the wind

    Our time on Kerrera has definitely come up on top as the most unexpected find during our 14 days tour of Scotland. After so much driving, one gets to start having somewhat of an impression about a place. We knew that Skye is going to be great and we expected Loch Ness to be overrated. Both those assumptions proved themselves to be correct. What we did not expect was our marvelous day on Kerrera. And that is why for us, Kerrera has become Scotland’s Hidden Gem.

    The city of Oban, with Kerrera in the distance
    The city of Oban, with Kerrera in the distance

    Now please proceed and forget everything that you’ve just read, because this place needs to be preserved deserted as it is. If this place were to somehow, overnight, become as famous as Loch Ness, it would be ruined. This is a rather annoying fact, but that’s how it goes with beautiful, wild places.

    Some sheep like life on the edge
    Some sheep like life on the edge

    So, forgive my sarcasm when I joke: please go to Loch Ness, visit castle Urquhart and the other famous tourist traps. You can find gift shops there! There is no such thing here, aside from a few locally crafted wares that you can buy at the tea garden. You don’t want to disturb the calm sheep, the serene nature, nor the majestic goat we’ve seen just as we were leaving the castle grounds, still hypnotized by the lonesome beauty of Gylen.

    His Highness...
    His Highness…

    Sarcasm aside, Gylen is still there, waiting for those that will appreciate it for what it is. What you’ve just read is what it was for us – a subjective account, of arguable value. I doubt I’d have enjoyed this visit as much as I did had it not been for the ominous sky and the lack of expectation I had when I went there.

    Nature needs no thrones
    Nature needs no thrones

    Most pictures made by Crina^, except the picture with the tea garden, © Trip Advisor.

    You can access the full album here^.

    My proposed soundtrack for reading this text:

    Delerium – Flowers Become Screens^

    Digitonal – Anaethmatics^

    And, if you’re feeling adventurous, try Clubroot – Low Pressure Zone^

    References & further reading:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gylen_Castle^

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerrera^

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corbel^

    [ax_meta fbimgurl=’http://mentatul.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/01473-OnceUponASnowyNovemberDayNew-Share.jpg’ lnimgurl=’http://mentatul.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/01332-KerreraScotlandHiddenGem-Thumb.jpg’ fbimgw=’1170′ fbimgh=’350′ lnimgw=’250′ lnimgh=’250′ title=’Kerrera – Scotland's Hidden Gem’ desc=’During the evening, wet clouds came down and embraced the hills, caressing the trees with misty fingers. The only sounds were those of animals and wind.’]